Learning From The Recent 2020 Rolex Collection

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Some vintage watch collectors love Patek Philippe. Some love Panerai. Some love all kinds. But Rolex is among the world’s most recognisable luxury brands because Rolex lovers tend to get a little obsessed. Last week Rolex dropped its new 2020 watch collections. Here are a few in-depth learning from the recent 2020 Rolex Releases:

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1. Rolex Is Paying Closer Attention Than We Think

We've got a refresh in the form of five new 36mm Oyster Perpetual models featuring colorful lacquer dials. The OP lineup comes with five new colorful dials in cotton candy pink, forest green, canary yellow, coral red and light turquoise. Also equipped with the 3230, each Ref. 126000 is available in sizes ranging from 28 mm to 41 mm (with the exception of 39 mm) and retails for $5,600. The colors look great. They're bright and fun, and with their medium size, these new Oyster Perpetuals figure to be perfectly sized for those with smaller and medium-sized wrists. More recently we'd seen brightly colored dials in this vein appearing on certain aftermarket watches. It's tough to get a sense for exactly how the colors are going to look in the metal. These five watches aren't it for the new Oyster Perpetual 36. There are three additional variations: a silver dial, a bright blue dial, and what Rolex calls a bright black dial. It's a fully spec'd out modern Rolex that would make a really compelling argument for everyday wear.

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2. Stop Worrying About The Numbers

We're getting a new version of the Submariner Date to accompany the new 41mm no-date Submariner. However, while the no-date Sub is only available in Oystersteel with a black dial and black bezel, the 41mm Submariner Date comes in seven configurations, two of which are new versions of modern cult classics.

Wearing the most recent 40mm Submariner and the new 41mm Submariner side-by-side, it's hard to believe that the latter is larger than the former. The form factor and overall profile make a much bigger difference than the diameter itself. The result is a watch that's more comfortable and wearable than expected.

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3. Movements Matter

In Rolex 2020 collection almost every model now has a current-generation movement with a Chronergy escapement with longer power reserve and Rolex's proprietary escapement inside. The Perpetual movements that equip the Oyster models play a key role in the reputation for excellence of Rolex watches. These self-winding mechanical movements, all rigorously certified as chronometers by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), are entirely designed and manufactured by Rolex based on common characteristics. These ensure high performance and adherence to uncompromising requirements in terms of precision, reliability, shock-resistance, efficient self-winding and ease of maintenance.

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4. The 39mm Rolex Is (Almost) Dead

After a five-year run, the Oyster Perpetual 39 has been phased out of the collection, which was a fan favorite with the 41mm Oyster Perpetual replacing it. Many consider 39mm a "sweet spot," and especially so for a relatively conservatively styled watch like the Oyster Perpetual.